Archive for March, 2008

The Bog

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After our St. Patrick’s Day party we still hopped out of bed bright and early to catch a bus to the beautiful Doolin Village, a tiny town tucked back in the mountains a few hours walk from the Cliffs of Moher. The was actually my very favorite place that we went on our whole trip, which is why it gets its own spotlight blog! We checked into the rustic Allie River Hostel, chatted with the manager Karl, and headed off on “Karl’s Walk” to the Cliffs of Moher. Karl assured us that this walk was much better than going on the actual road and that we should hit the Cliffs in a few hours…he then proceeded to give us a series of directions that sounded something like this… “Cross the river and turn right, head to the fork in the road and take another right, then you will come to a fence that says ‘DANGEROUS CLIFFS AHEAD’ – cross that fence, keep walking and pass an abandoned village on your left, go past the castle in the distance, when you get to another fence take a right to avoid the muddy cowfield…” and so on and so on…needless to say, we couldn’t remember half of the directions, so we kept asking each other silly things like “was that a right after the first abandoned house?” or “are we supposed cross this ravine in the middle of the path or follow it?” But we trekked on!

Now accustomed to the massive rain showers and wind storms Ireland frequently dolled out, we had each worn about three layers beneath our coats, which we quickly stripped off as Ireland chose to bless this one day with gorgeous warm rays of sun. However, we soon decided to stash our stuff in one of the fortress ruins we passed and get it on the way back. Sounds easy enough, right? WRONG! And this is how we first met with THE BOG. As it turns out, almost all Irish fields are covered with a thick layer of peat grass that soaks up all moisture and simultaneously make it appear dry and fluffy…but as we soon discovered, a swamp of muddy cow-crud water was lurking just beneath the surface! Knee deep in sludge, with no hope of salvaging shoes or pants, we hiked on…and kept on Karl’s path. We think it might have been a conspiracy to see how many tourists he could convince to go on his path. We hiked uphill for about two hours, but the scenery was absolutely breathtaking and we were hiking about a meter from the edge of the cliffs, so it was just fabulous. The sun shone and the bog water soon eeked out of our shoes, and by the end of the trek we were practically dry. After hiking along the edge of the cliffs for so long, we were a bit disappointed to find the “tourist safe” zone marked off meters from the actual cliffs…it was actually quite funny because in order to get into the safe zone, Katie and I actually climbed INTO the safety area because our hike led us clearly outside the marked safety areas, past several DANGER signs!
But all was well in the end – we munched a quick ice cream cone and readied ourselves to battle with the bog once again. However, this time I am sad to say, I think the bog won! As I was running through the muddy field, I slipped and fell flat on my butt, straight into the bog! Two muddy gloves, a soggy wet bum, and dirt-splattered jeans later, we stumbled back to the hostel for some much needed showers! It really was my favorite day because the sun blessed our FIVE our journey, we saw the amazing cliffs and definitely had the better way to see them (right alongside instead of in the safe zone), and I laughed so hard my abs were sore in the morning. So, if you ever go to Ireland…and head to Doolin Village…and stay at the Allie River Hostel…don’t forget to take Karl’s Path to the Cliffs of Moher…just make sure you are ready to fight the bog!

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Happy St. Patrick’s Day from the Old Emerald Isle!

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My goodness, My Guinness!

So we start at the beginning…heading off to Ireland. Ireland showed us a really good time, and if you ever get the chance to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day there – do it in a heartbeat! We flew into Dublin, but headed off the next day to Athlone, a tiny town without much to say for itself except that it marks the dead center of Ireland and is home to the oldest bar in Ireland – Sean’s pub, open since 900 A.D. (see picture). I had my first Irish pint at Sean’s Pub and tasted the local flavor of Smithwicks…nice and light compared to Guinness, but I would later discover my favorite Irish beer is certainly Murphys! Galway was next on the list and our St, Patrick’s Day choice! Katie’s friends were studying in Galway so we had some semi-locals to show us around, although I admit we mostly saw the inside of pubs!

St. Patrick’s day was so much fun simply because everyone was wrapped up in the spirit of the day. Actually, in Ireland, St. Patrick’s used to be more of a family/religious holiday (like America’s Thanksgiving) and has only in the last 20 years added on an element of crazy-party-ness. We started our day at about 11:00, jostling for a spot lining the main street for the parade. Everyone was decked out with green shirts, leprechaun hats, sparkly pom-poms, stickers, and other (some quite hideous) St. Patrick’s Day paraphernalia. We rocked our leprechaun tattoos…but decided to steer clear of the giant foam hats…make your own choice when you go…But, all of that just added to the experience for me. Everywhere you looked there were Irish flag capes or furry green headbands or oversized green glasses. The parade itself was pretty funny because it was a combo of really cool Irish floats (Viking ships to commemorate the landing on Ireland, groups of 10 feet tall snakes to remind us that St. Patrick supposedly drove all the snakes out of Ireland – really, there aren’t any snakes in Ireland at all…so maybe St. Patrick did do it!) or traditional memorabilia (St. Patrick alter, procession of flags) and smaller home-town groups such as a kid’s hurling team, boys boxing club, high school dance team, or 100 elementary school kids playing Ireland’s national anthem on RECORDERS! (Gotta love the recorder…apparently a universal elementary school subject). The parade ended with a large number of police cars, fireman trucks, and street cleaner cars that were lost as the crowds closed in around them to make their way toward the pubs. We had our first drink at 12:30 – but hey, when it is Irish coffee…that is kinda a morning drink, right? It was coffee after all! We also hit up an amazing fish and chips joint that had been recommended to us in Athlone; we had to wait about half an hour to get in, but I can honestly say those were the best darn fish and chips I have ever had! If you are ever in Galway, get yourself over to Mc Donagh’s! Yum!

After a bit o’ lunch, we started our pub hopping! There were so many people milling around from ages 2 to 92 that we had to wiggle our way in and out of each place. But the live Irish jig music and atmosphere was way worth it! It was amid all of this madness that I had my first Guinness – which is quite tasty, but a pint feels like a three course meal because it is so thick and heavy. My favorite part of drinking a Guinness is that first sip, which is all frothy and rich, and even leaves a bit of froth on your lip…mmm…We had a great time meandering around, but you can only shove your way through crowds for so long, and my tummy could only hold so many three-course meals so we eventually headed our way back home for a yummy super and nice snooze! It was a really great day and I would definitely recommend Galway instead of the more touristy Dublin if you are planning on heading to the Great Emerald Isle for St. Patrick’s festivities.

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Semana Santa…spring break, Europe style

You ready for this? I just got back from a two week trip visiting a large portion of Ireland, stopping over two days in Barcelona (once you start, you just can’t stop), and then heading south to Granada and Cordoba! It was quite a lot of traveling and I think that I have been on every mode of transportation except for a bike in the last two weeks (ferry, plane, train, bus, car, metro, even a scooter). I am so happy to be back in Pamplona where I don’t need to examine a map to get around, I don’t have to even look at a bus, and I can actually eat real food…I have never been so excited to go grocery shopping in my life! I have traveled a bunch before, but this I feel is one of my first experiences truly, truly budget traveling – buying groceries to make our own food, staying in airports and bus stations for awkward amounts of time, deciding between kissing the Blarney Stone and visiting another town (because we didn’t have money for both!), and eating bread and butter for breakfast five days straight! Bring on college travel time! I think it really is a stage in your life that never gets repeated, because we were all laughing about how luxurious it seems to travel with the parents (God bless you, parents!) and eat three square meals a day. All in all it was a wonderful trip, although by the end my clothes all smelled bad (after being work two or three times), I was barely let on the airplane because of the weight of my bag, and I was ready to come home to Pamplona! That being said, there are so many stories to tell, cities to explain, and pictures to show…but as I may get tired of typing, I am going to try to break it down into more manageable pieces – so as not to overwhelm you with my travels…and eloquence…

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Nothing makes sense in Spain…and there might be terrorists living in my apartment building…

So this morning we awoke to a troop of swat-type police patrolling the block in front of our apartment building. There were red police vans parked along the street and about 7 policemen patrolling the sidewalk, complete with bullet proof vests, black ski masks, red motorcycle type helmets, and huge guns! We still have no idea what was going on, but later when we went out for a run (I know, ME going out for a run…but I have actually started running…proud, aren’t you?) there were a bunch of other people (not SWAT type, just regular civilian clothes but also wearing the BLACK SKI MASKS carrying out arm loads of stuff from someone’s apartment, including a computer and some other electronics. They even politely asked us to hold the door for them. It was really strange, and we can’t figure out why the police would need to wear bank-robber ski masks. So, now I have no idea what is going on. To add to the madness, two days ago was the assassination of a retired Socialist councilman from the northern Basque area (my area) allegedly by the ETA (a Basque freedom group that is really vocal about wanting independence from Spain, we have seen some protests here as well). So, who knows – you never know what you will wake up to find in Spain.

On a totally unrelated subject, I ate Mexican food here for the first time, and let me tell you Spanish Mexican food is not so good. We started our meal by receiving the standard “chips and salsa” although really we got about 10 chips on a tiny plate with a small bowl of heated-up tomato paste. We ordered some appetizer that turned out to be halves of potatoes with different toppings like veggies or huge chunks of melted cheese. Then the main course (we thought it was enchiladas, because that is what we ordered) ended up being a soupy lasagna-type dish: one layer of shredded chicken, one layer of mashed sweet green tomatoes, and a thick layer of baked melted white cheese. Enchiladas? I don’t think so. Still it was tasty, and I suppose that you just have to learn to roll with the punches…the funny thing is this happens all the time, especially with food. We are constantly ordering something, thinking it will be one thing, and receiving something entirely different. For example, a friend tried to order a hotdog and ended up with a plate of unidentified meat, lettuce with yellowish dressing that resembled pee, and cheese croquets! Another friend ordered a Sandwich with Calamari on it one night and liked it so much she tried to order the same thing again, and wound up with a bowl of calamari soaked in it’s own ink sauce! I accidentally ordered pumpkin-fish soup the other day (which is actually quite good) but I thought it was goulash. You just never know what you’re gonna get. But sometimes it works out for the best…we stumbled upon the most amazing dessert called Goshua (we think, now we can’t find any recipes for it) that is made in the Basque region with a layer or thick whip cream, a thin layer of sponge cake, a layer of thicker pudding creme, and some carmelized sugar on top. It was to die for…so, you know, maybe it’s okay to order without knowing what you get!

And then sometimes…you will try to find a way to say exactly what you want to say in Spain, and as I was told by my Spanish teacher, “sometimes your words just don’t exist.” The thing is, they are words that need to exist! For example, after spending 10 minutes describing a sticker (it is something that goes on your clothes, kids love them, they could be gold stars for doing something good, they have little pictures on the front, and sticky glue-stuff on the back, etc) I found out that there is NOT a word for sticker, and I could use “pegamento” – directly translated, this means “little gluey thing” – if I needed to use this word! That doesn’t seem to be a good substitute if you ask me.

In other Spanish randomness, a roommate also bought pillowcases that are open on both ends…so the pillow can fall right through. If anyone has a good idea what use that would be, let me know…

We also tried to iron a shirt the other day (only one setting on the iron and no additional knobs to turn) and it made the shirt so crisp that it broke – literally cracked along a crease and just ripped straight through…good if you are going for the rugged gangster look, not so good for a white button down.

Our oven has 6 knobs (two of them don’t turn, including the one that changes the temperature on our oven) and none of them have any writing on them. So we tend to cook whole pizzas in about 3 minutes.

Hmmm…that might be all the Spanish oddities you can handle for now. Trust me, there are many more coming. Most of the random cultural difference are easy to adjust to, some are very frustrating, some don’t make any sense at all, and a great percentage of the time we just burst into laughter and say “well, nothing makes sense in Spain!”

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Parks, Picasso, and Pinchos – what more could you want?

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When (when, not if) you go to Barcelona make sure you have more than two days or you will leave planning your next trip there! I am already plotting to spend a few more days in the second biggest city in Spain in order to really soak up everything it has to offer. It is a large city first of all, so there is a lot to see, but it is also home to some of the most famous, and beautiful, sites in Spain. We went with a tour from school (about 50 people) so we were on a pretty tight schedule most of the time and didn’t have a lot of free time to choose what we wanted to do, so I guess that next trip I will leave myself more “wander time.”

We started out our trip at 5:00 in the morning (Groan) and bussed to Barcelona, which is about 5 hours to the southeast of us; we arrived midmorning and were immediately treated to a driving tour of some of Gaudi’s famous works and the modern architecture that has helped land Barcelona on the map. It was interesting to see all of his work juxtaposed with regular buildings and shops, because in many ways it seems entirely out of place with the rest of the city. Or maybe the new buildings and shops are the ones out of place…

Next, we went to Park Guell, which was one of my favorite places in Barcelona and a sure stop on my return trips. This gorgeous park is filled with mosaic style decorating covering everything from buildings to steps to fountains to ceilings. All of the bright colors and unusual patterns make such a beautiful contrast against the green foliage that also permeates the garden. The abundance of trees here (and Spain in general) is amazing and I found out that they import trees from all over the world in order to have one of the greenest countries in Europe. (At my University, there are over 100 different types of trees; at least one from 5 of the continents.) But the buildings looked almost Hansel and Gretel-esque, with their gingerbread style roofs and bright spots of color sunk into white “frosting.” It was beautiful in this park, and of course, in typical Spanish fashion (or maybe European fashion) there was an accordion player lifting spirits with a lively polka, a bassist dressed in medieval clothes and a white wig, a trumpet player blasting the blues, and street vendors with blankets full of “cheap, cheap, so so cheap” necklaces, scarves and bracelets to sell. I love that kind of atmosphere where there is a lot going on, mood music, and lots of people enjoying the same thing.

After Park Guell, we made a quick stop at Sagrada Familia, which is one of the most famous cathedrals in Europe and is currently under construction. The cathedral was started around the 1500’s but then Gaudi (the architect) died in the middle of the construction and left behind a work crew without a single blueprint or design to follow so construction was stopped for quite awhile. Now, construction has resumed (under some controversy) and there is hope that the Sagrada Familia will be finished within the next century. Unfortunately, we were crunched for time and didn’t get to tour around inside the church, so this will be stop number one for my return trip!

After ditching our bags at our hostel (this was one major perk of going with a tour, we scored an amazing place to stay), we headed out for lunch (typically Spanish – late and large)! We found several restaurants by the water that specialized in seafood and ate a three course meal including mussels that were to die for, tasty salmon, ice cream, bread, and sangria (which is even cheaper than water in most parts of Spain). The food was so good and gave us a bit of energy to keep exploring! Next, we headed to the Picasso Museum, which houses more of his early works than anywhere else in the world. Picasso was born and raised in Barcelona, so many of his early paintings (around age 5-14) depict things that we had seen in Barcelona or were named after places in Barcelona, so that was neat. The most amazing thing about the Picasso Museum was looking at some of those early year pictures – he was painting full scenes and portraits of professional quality when he was only 7 years old. It was fascinating to see that this amazing ability at such an early age is probably part of what pushed him to reach farther into the abstract painting styles, because he has already mastered capturing real life. The paintings were amazing and I especially enjoyed one series of paintings (I think 40+) Picasso did using Van Gogh’s La
as inspiration. Picasso took elements of Van Gogh’s painting of a drawing room and broke them into smaller pieces or recreated the entire scene in a cubist manner. It was really interesting to see how many different paintings were produced from the same stimuli. After the Picasso Museum, we wandered around the Barrio Gotico, where many of the famous older buildings and churches are. My favorite tidbit of information was that we were able to see one church in which Christopher Columbus received his blessing to set out on his explorations (that would eventually lead to America). Incidentally, there is also a huge statue of Columbus (Cristobol Colon, in Spanish) near the harbor that is supposedly the exact spot from which his boat first sailed. Barcelonans are very proud of these two famous men and you can find Picasso or Columbus merchandise around every corner.

The rest of the night consisted of wandering around the streets and tasting different foods – two of my favorite things to do! We didn’t get quite enough time to explore the streets before all the small shops and restaurants closed down, but that is why I am going back! We had heard from a friend’s friend about an Ice Bar in Barcelona that was supposedly made entirely of ice: the cups, the ceilings, walls, seats, etc! We tried to go check it our but there was a waiting list for about an hour and a half so we decided to hop next door to another groovin’ bar and dance the night away there instead. We had a lot of fun and even ran across the beach to stick our toes in the FREEZING cold water, just to say we touched the ocean while we were there. Girl’s dancing nights are always the best, although I am planning on tying to go back and visit this ice bar…if there is a waiting list that long, it has to be pretty neat inside!

In the morning it was up-and-at-‘em for a tour around Monjuic and the site of the 1992 Olympic Stadium. The stadium itself was closed because it was Sunday (and EVERYTHING is closed on Sunday here…gas stations, bread shops, grocery stores, and malls included) but we were able to walk around and see it and explore several gorgeous parks around the stadium. After that, we visited the Modern Art Museum, which was interesting – but after Picasso, well, it just doesn’t seem that much like art. It was interesting to see, but I think Modern/Contemporary Art is just not my cup of tea. Unfortunately, at the art museum, the dreaded pickpocket warning came true and one of the girls one our tour was robbed, so they had to spend the rest of the day canceling credits cards, etc. So, wear a body strap on our purse, hook it to your belt, and always keep your hand on the zipper! One of the best parts of the trip for me was wandering around Las Ramblas (the main street cutting through the old part of the city) where clowns, animated “statues,” and musicians showed off their talents to the crowds of people that come to walk on Sunday afternoons. It was so refreshing to be able to meander through small booths and take time to look at sidewalk paintings or stare at the “statues” and wonder how they hold so still. I love being able to soak up a city like this, and I feel like this in particular is why I want to return to Barcelona. Just to be able to really drink up more of the feel of the city, not necessarily to view more famous sites. All in all, a worthwhile trip, but like I said, if you only plan a few days, you will already be plotting to come back at your earliest convenience!

I know there are a lot of pictures of this one – but I just couldn’t decide which ones to put in!

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Photos Galore

I finally figured out this web-shots business, which is an on-line company that you can set up an account with and make on-line photo albums. I have uploaded all of my pictures so that those of you who just can’t get enough pictures of me and Spanish life, can have your fill! The link to click on is on the right hand side of the screen, entitled “Jathleen’s Photo Album.” Enjoy!

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My lovely Pamplona

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The thing that is wonderful about living in a new place is that you are constantly discovering new places to enjoy. I just found out that Pamplona is the greenest city in Spain and has parks around almost every corner, but none so beautiful as the Parque Taconera in the heart of the city. Parque Taconera is the oldest park in Pamplona and the largest and has been converted into a large bird/animal habitat area. It is really big with all different kinds of trees (including these bare, awkward looking ones we see all over Pamplona and we are eagerly awaiting Spring when we hope they will bloom into something breathtaking) and is encased in part of an old fortress wall that runs more or less around the city. Inside the park are all sorts of birds, ranging from roosters who crow at all hours of the day to peacocks and swans and ducks! In another area of the park are goats and some sort of Spanish reindeer. The park itself is gorgeous and such a tranquil spot to sit and eat Gelato (I tried a Champagne flavor and I am pretty sure it actually had alcohol in it!). It is beautiful as you will see!

We are forever finding new parks, churches, old buildings, and spots of beauty in Pamplona and I love just wandering around the city. The other day, we started at the bull pens and walked up the Running of the Bulls path, which was pretty cool. Near the end of the path, is a huge Running of the Bulls paraphernalia store and has a huge clock outside counting down until the start of this year’s running of the bulls…as you can see, everyone is already counting down and I am so excited I get to be a part of it this year!

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